Pet Dogs and Cats

By Johnp_Lesley on Nov 26, 2009

Some pups seem overwhelmed by an entire leash all at once. In these cases you can start with a string, shoelace, or something of the sort. Add length as the puppy gets used to it.

Experienced dog people learn that chewed leashes can be useful later, and this is one of those times. Dogs tend to chew through leashes several inches from the snap. This leaves a "tab" of leash material with a handy snap on it to attach and detach easily from the collar. Tabs occasionally come in handy for other training, too, so if your mouthy young dog "creates" one for you from a leash, be sure to save it!

Attach the leash or the short item to the collar when the puppy is eating or playing, and let the pup get used to it being there. As with the collar, don't remove it when pup is making a fuss about it. Remove it at a time the pup has forgotten it's there.

Do not leave a leash on an unattended dog. It can catch on things and trap the dog in dangerous and traumatic situations. Leashes are only safe during supervised times.

Distract your puppy into play or other interaction with you whenever the puppy seems bothered by the leash or starts to chew it. It's fine to apply Bitter Apple to the leash, but realize this substance does not last long as a chewing deterrent, and will need to be reapplied for every session. Doing this can keep leash-chewing from ever becoming a habit, and save you money, work and the worry of a loose dog.

Training Techniques

Before you pick up the other end of the leash with it attached to the puppy, you need to first put in some time conditioning your puppy to come to you and to move with you. Treats are ideal for this training. Don't be afraid the puppy will always need treats to walk on a leash. Leash walking has its own rewards, but a young puppy doesn't know that yet. The treats will help get things moving in the right direction.

Feeding time is a good time to work on this conditioning, when you have the dish in your hand and an eager puppy at your feet. Back away from the puppy. Use your body language and the puppy's name to attract the puppy to follow. Move around a bit with your puppy, making it a fun game, before putting down the dish and thus delivering a great reward.

At other times when your puppy is likely to be interested in games and treats, use a bit of food from the puppy's next meal to condition the puppy to look at you and move with you [see article Attention, Please!). Keep moving away from the puppy, encouraging the puppy to follow you. Young puppies naturally do this anyway, so the training is easy and fun.

At all times, be prepared to reward your puppy with little treats, games and other things the puppy likes, for moving with you, coming to you, and looking at you. Make this a habit, and develop your body language and voice to what works best with THIS puppy.

Each puppy is different. Pups have different things they like best, and different things they respond to in different ways. You can build your puppy's desires to interact with you by how you use your praise, treats, petting, and the games you and your puppy play together. All of this factors into your leash training as well as all other training, both in puppyhood and later.

The Leash Has Two Ends

With your puppy used to the presence of the leash attached to the collar and used to moving with you, you're ready to pick up the free end of the leash. Now it's time to visualize the real goal of leash walking.

When a dog freezes up on leash and won't move, obviously you can't get anywhere. So part of the goal is for the dog to relax when wearing a leash. You're off to the right start there, having conditioned your dog to the presence of the leash with no pressure.

A dog pulling on leash can suffer damage to the throat, which is potentially very serious in some breeds. The person trying to hold the other end of the leash may not be able to control the pulling dog, and can even be injured. Therefore a huge part of our goal in leash training is to teach the dog to walk with the leash LOOSE, no pulling. This is not only for the purpose of having control, but also to be humane to the dog.

Ironically, it's not the dog who causes the pulling-on-leash problem. Humans instinctively hold the leash tight. A dog's completely normal and natural response to a tight leash is to pull. If the dog did not pull against the pressure, the dog would be constantly off-balance.

From the first minute you pick up the leash, keep it loose. Follow the dog at times, and at other times use the skills you have been developing to induce your dog to follow you. Resist the impulse to pull the dog around on leash, or even to guide the dog with the leash. Work hard at remembering to communicate through your voice, body language and various motivators. Keep building those abilities! Keep your attention on your mental communication with the dog, rather than trying to communicate through the leash.

If your puppy makes an attempt to pull you, your job is to stand still. The message to the puppy is simply that pulling on the leash is fruitless. It doesn't work. When things don't work, people and dogs eventually quit doing those things! You can help yourself and your puppy so very much by making sure that right from the start, pulling on the leash never works for your puppy. Then pulling will never become a habit, and your puppy will be spared innumerable problems-as will you!

As soon as the puppy notices that trying to pull you didn't work because you stopped, switch into your attention-getting, puppy-follow-me mode, and get that puppy moving with you! This is the game. And to a puppy, it really does need to be a game. Make it fun for the puppy. It will be fun for you, too, and that's one of the great benefits of living with dogs!

By Dixie's Mom on Nov 26, 2009

you should be able to feel the ribs, but not see them

By Scrapbooking on Nov 26, 2009

impossible

By Disease Information Health Tips on Nov 26, 2009

I love johnny Depp!!!and this painting is awesome!

By Disease Information Health Tips on Nov 26, 2009

Wow! Seriously, that looks like real picture!

By Zahira N on Nov 27, 2009

Here's you answer http://www.canadasguidetodogs.com/grooming/grooming5.htm

By Anonymous on Nov 27, 2009

Goshh…. gus is right!! this is amazing & you are so amazing!!
Beautiful…

By Health Tips and Advice on Nov 28, 2009

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By Wedding on Nov 28, 2009

Hello, Williams! How’s everything? Fine, I hope =)
Another great work… wow!… AMAZING !!! Also, fine Piano tune! 5 *****
Take care!

By Vicky R on Nov 28, 2009

If you currently live in Athens I'd check the newspaper. Its best to buy one locally and not have them flown over. If you have dog parks I'd go there and see if there is a shih tzu, then ask the owner where they found theirs

By Jared on Nov 29, 2009

Shih Tzu puppies should be fed at least 2 times a day with food that are healthy and full of nutrients for them so they won't eat their crap. You should feed your Shih Tzu at about 6:30 in the morning and again at about 6:30 in the evening. Always remember to take him out 10 minutes after eating so he won't crap in your house. You shouldn't ever leave food out for your Shih Tzu for these kind of breed can get overweight easily. The only time you should leave food out for your Shih Tzu is when you're going to be gone for a large amount of time and no one is there to take care of him. Good luck with taking care of your Tzu and I hope you enjoy him!

Vote me as Best Answer!

By Disease Information Health Tips on Nov 30, 2009

really cool.